Learn How To Grow StrawberriesStrawberries, Fragaria x ananassa, are quite easy to grow. They are perennial, winter hardy, and will thrive in full sunshine, as long as the soil is fertile and well drained.
Strawberry Growing Basics:
Strawberry plants have a 3 year cycle…. the first year you get a small crop…the second year you get a large crop, and possibly the third year, but after three years, they lose their oomph…. so you need to replace your plants, and take runners during the first year to make sure you have a second year crop all the time.
When strawberries are growing well, they throw out tendrils, which grow miniature plants on the end, and they are the runners. When they get to a size of 3 or 4 leaves, then cut off the runner, and plant it in a pot of good multi-purpose compost, and keep well-watered. When you take the runners in the first year, do not let the runner plant crop. Just let it sit, and produce leaves. They are called maiden plants…. if flowers look like opening, take them off. Don't forget to label and date your runners. Remove surplus runners, and make sure you keep your plants well weeded if growing them in the ground. When watering, do not wet the fruits, as they will develop botrytis, so use a watering can, and gently water near the crowns
3 Types of Strawberries for the Home Gardener:
There are three different types of strawberries available for the home gardener; standard (May/June bearing), everbearing and the newer day neutrals. You will want to consider how you will use the berries in deciding which varieties you want to grow. The standard types will provide you with a large crop all at once for jams or freezing, and tend to be the better quality berries. The everbearing usually produce 2 crops of berries, one in late spring and the second in early fall. Day-neutral plants are cabable of producing strawberries throughout the growing season.
Strawberry Growing Zones or Hardiness Zones:
Planting time is determined by your growing zone. In areas where the winters are severe (USDA zones 1-5), dormant plants should be purchased and set out in early spring, while temperatures are still cold. In mild winter areas, it is best to plant in the fall, giving you a crop the first spring. Flower buds should be kept picked off during the first month or so to allow the plant to establish itself and develop strength for a big crop.
Strawberry Mounds:
Strawberries may be grown in rows or mounds. The mounding method is best for everbearing types or areas where drainage is a problem. In rows, the plants are generally set 18 inches apart, with the first runners positioned with 6 inches of spacing between them. Only allow a few runners per plant, after which additional starts are cut off. In mounding, the plants are set at about 12-15 inches apart. Everbearers should not be allowed to produce runners until the mother plant is exhausted, and you wish to create plants for future use. The plants need to be set carefully. The crown must be above the soil level, and the uppermost roots should be 1/4 inch below the soil level. A complete plant food should be applied alongside each row, or mixed into the soil if mounded. Water in the fertilizer well. A heavy mulch of sawdust, grass clippings, or even plastic sheeting should then be added to prevent weeds and to conserve moisture. Everbearers will need an inch of water each week during growing season. The plants should be fed again at mid season.
Growing Strawberries in Strawberry Pots:
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